To remove the original door, open it far enough to expose the hinges and give yourself ample working room. Whenever possible, put a wedge under the door on each side to take the pressure off the door hinges. One on each side helps prevent the door from falling in either direction after the pins are removed. In most cases, the door is attached to the frame with a two-part hinge – one part attached to the door, the other to the frame.

Take a hammer and a flat-head screwdriver, with a thin blade and flat, sturdy handle and tap the pin on the bottom hinge upward. Try to get it about 7/8 of the way out then stop. Tap the top pin up the same amount.
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Pins can stick for any number of reasons. If the door hasn’t been used for a while, or if the hinges are rusty or painted over, you may find it necessary to apply rust remover or paint remover first. Usually tapping with persistent, sharp blows is enough to do the job, however. Avoid scraping the frame with the blade of the screwdriver.

At this stage, it’s helpful to have a partner to ensure the door doesn’t fall after the pins are completely removed. Remove the bottom pin first, while holding the edge of the door to prevent movement. Take care to keep your fingers out of the space between the inner door edge and the frame. If the door moves, you’ll get a nasty pinch. While one person is holding the outer edge of the door, the other can remove the top pin.

With luck, the door will still be balanced on the hinges and you can insert your fingers into the inner edge and lift the door away. If necessary, grab the outer edge and the top and lift away.

Provided the old door isn’t too warped, it can be useful for size comparison with the new door. New doors sometimes need to have the bottom trimmed an inch or two. Trimming is best carried out at the location you bought the new door, if possible. Measure the old one before you purchase.

If you need to replace the hinges, unscrew the hinges from the frame and the old door. If you plan to reuse the old hinges and door handles, now is a good time to clean them and dust the hinge cracks with carbon or silicon powder.

It’s possible to use sewing machine oil or light grease to lubricate hinges. But, over time, that causes them to accumulate dirt and grit and eventually wear and squeak. A better method involves using a kind of powder popular with professional locksmiths.

This very fine carbon or silicon powder is sprayed inside the lock to keep tumblers rotating smoothly. It makes for a good lubricant for hinges, too, and can be easily wiped away.

Check the door frame and ensure that the screw holes will stand up well to reuse. If necessary, fill with wood putty, let dry, then drill a small starter hole for new screws.

Screw the refurbished or new hinge into the door frame. Measure and trim the new door to size, and attach the hinge. Set the door onto the hinges and work the top pin in first, about half way. Then work the bottom pin in part way (at least half, if possible).

Tap the pins in the rest of the way. Congratulate yourself on a job well done.

Ok, now isn’t that awesome? I just wish that I’d had my new camera when I took the old pictures, so the crispness and the color would be more uniform. I guess this way it just makes it more like all those weight loss before and after shots. We didn’t put makeup on the house for the before, and we used crummy lighting. And then for the after, we made sure to use plenty of makeup and really good lighting. Ha!

I can’t tell you how much I love these shutters! I think he could actually go into business just selling shutters! They’re gorgeous!

Here are the pics of the finished shutters in the front of the house:

He also made some little ones for my side kitchen window, that I’ll get a picture of soon. And isn’t my dog pretty? He sure makes the picture nice, doesn’t he?

Our house is definitely a work in progress, but, these shutters made so much difference! I’m always surprised when I come up the street and see our house – it’s almost like a different house, just with that one change. The cedar and the red bricks compliment each other just beautifully.

And after 15+ years of watching Mark work his magic on homes, I have every confidence in his making our house the most coveted on the block! Well, we do have a very old house across the street – built in the 1840′s. So if old houses are your game, ours might not be your favorite. And there is a two-story a little ways up that was recently sold, that my hubby and my friends and I were all drooling over. What I am saying, though, is that I actually get butterflies in my stomach – with excitement – when I think of what Mark will do to our house.

And these incredibly gorgeous shutters are just a taste of that.

Here is the house with the original shutters:

And here are the two opposite-end windows with an old shutter and a new shutter:

And then we got a new camera – awesome! And here is the vibrantly-colored picture of the house midway into the job:

(Please pardon the ‘porch’ – it’s in the middle of renovations, too! And it’s going to be so great, as well!)

You can find us on those two sites at the links below:

www.MerchantCircle.com

www.Squidoo.com/repair-and-remodel/

Come check us out and say ‘Hello!’

Then you are going to be so happy with this fabulous online tool I just found today! It is an amazing online tool called Floorplanner.com, and it’s free and it doesn’t even require any downloads! I’m sure there are many ways that this application can be helpful to many people. One woman on the site said that it was helping her to better communicate with the construction workers who are renovating her bathroom. One man who thoroughly enjoyed the application and was mapping out his dream house, was grateful to Floorplanner for saving him from the ‘hellish fumes’ of white out and a photocopier.
And I’m sure there are many more practical applications that will be made easier with Floorplanner.

And for your viewing pleasure, the ‘Queen of Screencasts’, DemoGirl.com has put together a video tour, to walk you through the site!

And not only do they offer a great design tool, but, they also have an interactive community in the form of a blog and forums. So you can map out your floorplan, and get tips and advice from others, too – or just share your latest remodeling triumphs.

Basements can be cold. Easily solved by turning the latest rage – radiant floor heating – on its side. The grids used underneath tile or wood floors can, with very little adaptation, be hung rather than laid.

The proper glue or nailing around the edges (avoiding the wire mesh, of course!), can make these systems easy to use as radiant wall heaters. Placed behind wood wall panels they operate essentially the same as floor systems, if there’s air movement in the room. Naturally, any water leakage or moisture problems will need to be dealt with first.

Basements can be dark. But that makes them perfect for a darkroom or home entertainment center.

If used for a darkroom, you’ll need to plan for proper ventilation and cold/hot water plumbing. You’ll also need to plan for partitioning, unless you can guarantee no one will open the basement entrance during those critical moments.

A home entertainment center provides a number of opportunities for creativity. Inexpensive kits today offer a half dozen speakers which can be placed at acoustically advantageous spots for that true theater experience.

You’ll want to investigate materials for sound control. Acoustic ceiling and wall tile or wall hangings, non-shag carpet and so forth will all be necessary. Wood floors and walls are attractive, but provide too ‘live’ an environment for home music or theater systems.

You’ll also want to plan the proper lighting system. Track lighting is popular, but difficult to place to keep glare off the screen. Think about building some reflective shelves or sconces, with bounced light off of light wood or metal, make for good alternatives. Not everyone prefers watching movies in complete darkness.

Basements can be wet. Too much seepage can present a hazard and no amount of creativity can turn that to advantage. But, within limits, a moist environment can be a good thing for certain uses – saunas or greenhouses for example.

To plan a sauna, you’ll need to investigate current options for hot-water plumbing and steam generation. Several modular systems are available in a variety of price ranges. Drainage is key, since water build up has to be dealt with.

Fortunately, though basements can be cool, since they’re enclosed they’re generally easy to keep hot once warmed up. Good insulation is key. Cork works well, but can accumulate mold. There are dozens of modern materials with low heat conductivity available.

Proper partitioning can keep the actual sauna area small, while a tiled area can be used for cooling down or toweling off. Paint in warm colors, but allow plenty of time for complete drying.

Greenhouses are easy to make in most basements. Though care has to be taken to control mold and mildew, inexpensive heating lamps can provide both warmth and light for growing orchids and other ‘hot-house’ flowers.

Extra care has to be observed in planning electrical systems to control water contact. Luckily, modern materials for wrapping under-floor pipes and running wiring through conduit are light-weight and inexpensive.

Whatever you plan to design, be sure to get one of the low-cost devices for measuring radon gas (very seldom a problem, despite hype in the media) and carbon monoxide levels. Proper ventilation is critical for comfort and health.

Take advantage of antique stores, old school remodeling projects and other sources to obtain interesting floors, wall coverings and decorative items. You’d be surprised by what can be picked up for little or no money.

With the average cost of basement remodeling running around $35,000, what better way to turn that problem around?

There are several reasons good contractors make good incomes. They work hard over many years to acquire a wide set of useful skills. Good contractors almost always started as workmen of one kind or another – carpenter, plumber, electrician, you name it.

They know first hand what it takes to become skilled in those trades. They know by sight what constitutes work well done and when a job was completed poorly. Beyond that, they learn to be good businessmen as well.

Many may not have accounting and finance skills, but they know how to hire well. They know how to bid a job fairly and how to manage sub-contractors and workmen fairly and firmly.

That’s the kind you’re looking for. They’re out there. If you could get recommendations from friends and family about a reliable, competent contractor you wouldn’t be reading this. So what to do beyond that? To find one, start with common sense guidelines.

Ask for references. Hiring a contractor is an expensive proposition and this is no time to be shy. Automatic, unfounded suspicion will poison any business relationship at the outset. But good contractors aren’t sensitive about providing names and phone numbers for satisfied former clients. They know that referrals are the lifeblood of their business.

Once you have them, check them. Prepare a list of questions about the size and complexity of the previous project. Ask about the initial budget and schedule and whether they were met. It sounds intrusive, but most people will share that information gladly.

They, too, know that a good contractor is golden. They know it’s in their interest also to see that person succeed. That way, the next time they need those services he (or she, many are female these days) will still be in business.

You’re perfectly free to take risks. You’re not required (at least for some projects) to hire a licensed contractor. Some unlicensed contractors are skilled and reliable professionals who simply prefer to do business ‘under the radar’. But the odds are against you in that case, especially if the person is a stranger.

Ask for the license number and use it, along with the business and contractor’s names to check the Better Business Bureau and other local business groups. Check with city and state agencies to see if there are any complaints or actions pending. Most contractors are honest and some of those still find themselves subject to legal action. Clients, too, can be dishonest and ask for something they’ve no right to.

But, proceed with caution. Get any details you can. Many details of pending actions are kept confidential by law.

Interview the contractor as you would any employee. But remember to treat them as the skilled professional they are. Ask about previous work. Get details about size of the job, length, budget, etc.

Room remodeling is a much smaller job than a room addition. Deck additions are much simpler when it’s an 8 ft x 10 ft, 10 inch high attached deck on the rear of the house. Eight foot high decks constructed in a backyard with a steep hill are an order of magnitude harder. Specifics count.

Above all, you’ll have to judge the hardest thing of all to judge: character. Look for straight answers to straight questions. Look for someone who looks you in the eye. Watch for complaining or excuses about why the last job didn’t go well or why his workers let him down.

Honest, competent professionals accept responsibility for all phases of the job – and the outcome. Luckily for you, most contractors are like that.

Kitchen and bath remodel, decks, painting, tile work, carpentry, etc.

No job too small!

We do emergency repairs also.

Mark Roberson

Jacksonville, Alabama 36265

256-365-6101